Archive | October 2011

Paraguay Travel Advice

From the South America section of the Indie Travel Podcast

We’ve spent the last week travelling in Paraguay, so thought we’d share our Paraguay travel advice with you!

To listen to this podcast, hit play or find episode 214 for free in iTunes:

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Travel in Paraguay seems to be a topic that no-one really talks about, but we’re befuddled as to why. We certainly really enjoyed it, and would go back if the opportunity presented itself.

Getting into Paraguay

We talked about getting a visa and the Ciudad del Este border crossing in the travel forum – check there for details.

After entering Paraguay at the Brazil-Paraguay border, we visited…

Ciudad del Este

This modern city is Paraguay’s second largest, and one of the biggest commercial developments in South America. The central city, at least, feels like one giant collection of malls and stalls. If visiting from Foz do Iguacu for the day, you do not need a visa, or even a stamp in your passport, to enter Ciudad del Este (often contracted to “CDE” on local timetables) — as long as you leave via the same border crossing.

There are three main attractions in Ciudad del Este: shopping, the Itaipu dam, and the Hito Tres Fronteras.

Shopping in Ciudad del Este

By far the biggest attraction is the shopping. Hundreds, if not thousands, of Brazilians arrive every day for the tax-free clothing, electronics and other things on sale. From street stands to modern, air-conditioned malls, the centre of town has little beyond shops, currency exchange stalls and a few restaurants to keep you going. If you visit Ciudad del Este just for the day, you don’t need to get a visa … just don’t stray too far from town.

The Itaipu Dam

The Itaipu Dam is the largest hydroelectric dam on earth*: its yearly output could power the entire world for two days. This is a shared project between Paraguay and Brazil, and you can visit on both sides. However, it’s free to visit on the Paraguayan side: and the 20 minute bus out there costs less than a dollar.

The Itaipu Dam sits between Paraguay and Brazil

The visit starts with a 20-25 minute video, in Spanish, showing the development of the dam, its technology, and how it influences life in Paraguay and Brazil. A little technical, but still very interesting. After that, a bus will drive along to a lookout, then circle through the dam complex without stopping. Views from the windows — the dam, massive power lines, and the great Itaipu lake — are impressive on both sides of the coach.

Make sure to time your arrival with one of the documentary showings: at 8am, 9:30am, 2pm and 3pm Monday to Friday, with an extra showing at 10:30am on Saturdays as well as the other times. On Sunday your only options are morning ones: 8am, 9:30am and 10:30am.

* Largest in terms of electricity generated.

Hito Tres Fronteras

The rivers Iguacu and Parana separate Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina — and each country has a viewpoint where each country can be seen over the river. Even though it is just a short, cheap bus ride from town, we didn’t visit Hito Tres Fronteras on the Paraguayan side, having visited in Argentina.

Seeing Paraguay from Argentina at the Hito Tres Fronteras


The small southern city of Encarnacion was a real highlight of our time in Paraguay. It’s a colonial town with a lovely main square, complete with a miniature Japanese garden. The walkway down by the river, where you can look out at the skyline of Posada, Argentina, is currently being re-developed and will look great by the time the southern summer arrives.

The main attraction near Encarnacion is the sheer amount of Jesuit ruins around the place (Encarnacion itself is built over a Jesuit settlement). During the 17th and 18th century, Jesuit communities gained power, financial and cultural influence, and a high degree of autonomy from the Spanish crown. A main centre of their power was modern Paraguay, with extensions into modern Argentina, Brazil and Bolivia (although it was all Paraguay back then). The Spanish grew quite nervous about this, and expelled the Jesuits from all South America in 1767. The Ruta Jesuitica is a tourism route through dozens of ruins, but we visited the two UNESCO world heritage sites, Jesus de Tavarangüe and Trinidad.

Jesus de Tavarangüe

Jesus was abandoned, unfinished at the time of the expulsion – meaning what we see today is almost exactly as they were left in the late 18th century.

The unfinished church at Jesus
Within the church, looking towards the cloisters
The unfinished schoolrooms stretch from the church


Trinidad was a large community, probably serving over 300 Jesuit and Indian families. The quarry nearby — which also supplied rock for Jesus — is also able to be visited.

Looking towards the main church from the bell tower
Column of a cloister, with the squat, fortified bell tower


The capital of Paraguay was our final stop, and we’re glad it wasn’t our first. While we found people to be friendly and the cities to be safe and clean in other parts of Paraguay, Asuncion was run down and people more reserved and difficult to talk to.

We caught the bus out to the huge botanical garden and zoo at the city’s outskirts. The area is a great place to spend a lazy day, with a few wandering snack and drink salespeople to keep you going. The zoo has a large collection of endemic animals kept in constricted, but clean, habitats. And, for some reason, an ostrich.

Entrance to the Botanical Garden, Asuncion

There are museums, grand buildings, shopping markets and everything you might expect in a busy South American city, but nothing to really catch your eye or make things memorable — although we did keep noticing fading art deco facades.

Thoughts on travel in Paraguay

Our world fact book claims that Paraguay and Bolivia have a very similar GDP, but our experience of Paraguay was that it was much more affluent and faster-growing than its andean neighbour. There seems to be more indigent people living in Asuncion than the other cities we visited, and there are large areas of farmland that provide little more than sustenance living for its workers … so maybe those stats are true.

Art Deco in Asuncion, Paraguay

All in all, we felt very safe travelling in Paraguay, even when walking the streets in the late evening or on long bus trips. While we’ve heard reports of some scams, we encountered none at all. We never felt threatened, hassled or oversold because we were foreigners … which was a nice contrast with our time in Bolivia.

Paraguay’s a great destination, with lots more to see. There are wonderful natural sites, an intriguing and accessible modern history, and is very well priced. I really don’t know why more people don’t visit, so plan to go soon before tourism really picks up.

Paraguay Travel Advice by Craig and Linda Martin was originally published on the award-winning Indie Travel Podcast (iTunes) under the name “Travel Gear – Updated recommendations”. See more of their South America stories.


Are these the best places in South America?



Indie Travel Podcast writes about the best places in South America … but what do you think?

1. Chile

We loved: Santiago, Valparaiso, Chiloe, the Lake district, beer tasting in Valdivia, and the San Pedro de Atacama astronomy tour.

We didn’t like: With a few exceptions, Craig didn’t like the food too much. Linda’s a total Chile fan!

We would return and: go wild in Patagonia, explore more of the northern desert, taste wine near Santiago.

2. Peru

We loved: Craig’s “northern three” of Trujillo, Chiclayo and Chachapoyas; eating guinea pig; time in Arequipa — we wish we had spent more time there than in Cusco.

We didn’t like: Being pick-pocketed several times, the rich/slums division of some towns – especially Cusco, the city-space of Lima, having to bribe our way out across the border.

We would return and: hike the Cordillera Blanca, spend more time in Chachapoyas and more time at the beach around Huacachina.

3. Argentina


Argentina … rocks?!

We loved: the food and wine, Salta, new friends met in Cafayate and visited in La Plata, Bicentennary celebrations in Buenos Aires, the Iguacu Falls.

We didn’t like: Not much: Argentina was Craig’s favourite country visited in South America.

We would return and: head further south, visiting Patagonia and maybe trying our hands at some snow-sports.

4. Uruguay


fruit stand montevideo uruguayA fruit stand in Montevideo

We loved: the food and wine, relaxing at a friends lake house (where much food and wine was consumed), wandering Montevideo, chilling in beautiful Colonia.

We didn’t like: The prices — which were fair but higher than the rest of the continent — so no complaints there.

We would return and: Visit wineries, learn to surf on the east coast, visit some of the many places we missed.

5. Bolivia

Copcabana church Bolivia

We loved: Touring the Saltar de Uyuni (Uyuni Salt Flats), hiking around Copacabana, the people we couchsurfed with in La Paz.

We didn’t like: La Paz where we were constantly singled out by gangs of thieves, the roughest roads and least secure public transport we experienced.

We would return and: Get off the altiplano and into the forest, do some kind of river adventure, visit the wine region of the south east.

6. Brazil


rainbow over iguacu falls brazilRainbow over the Iguacu Falls, from the Brazilian side

We loved: the Iguacu falls (the only piece of Brazil we’ve visited). We visited the fall from both the Argentinian and Brazilian side and, although we weren’t expecting much, were overwhelmed. One of the natural wonders of the continent, approximately 1,746 cubic meters per second flows over the 270-odd falls. Expect to get wet — no matter which side you visit. Food and amenities are better on the Argentinian side, but both provide good value for money.

The bird park a few minutes walk from the Brazilian entrance is also fantastic, but beware open-toed shoes and the curious toucans!

We’re looking forward to: exploring much more of the huge country! But it won’t be this year. We’re hoping to return and see much more of Brazil, hopefully over a year, one day.

We haven’t yet visited the following countries, but we’re looking forward to seeing them this year:

7. Ecuador


seal resting on beach galapagos ecuadorChilling in the Galapagos. Sounds good.

We’re looking forward to: travelling through Ecuador from south to north. We hope to go see our friend Tom in the galapagos and generally take the advice in this community thread on travelling to Colombia through Ecuador from Peru.

8. Colombia


city of medellin skyline colombiaMedellin – where we plan to spend a month or two

We’re looking forward to: visiting friends all over the country, then setting up somewhere for a month or two. Our sights are set on Medillin — where do you think we should stop for a while?

So that’s their thoughts …

But what do you think? What are the best places in South America? Leave your comments below.

Welcome to South America travel!!

Hello, and welcome to the new South America travel blog. Our goal is to bring you the best South America travel stories and tips, to help you travel further and better while you are on the continent. After all, isn’t that the point of travel?

South America is home to the world’s largest remaining rainforest, driest desert, longest river, and some of the highest waterfalls. But it’s not just the amazing Amazon or Andes, from folklore to film there are sumptuous cultural offers to explore, and some amazing cuisines.

So let’s start enjoying travel in South America!